If you want to learn more about bog filters you can read my bog filter overview article. If you buy a good quality pond liner it will be uv stabilised and guaranteed for a certain number of years.
We are always into the ponds seeing what we can find. Having that protective layer of rocks and gravel over the liner protects it from sharp claws, sticks, ect. This is pretty self explanatory a pond with plants, rocks and gravel blends more naturally into the landscape. Eventually every pond owner is going to encounter predators. You really need to have those hiding areas in place to give your fish a sporting chance.
Koi fish can be incredibly expensive and serious collectors will spend a pretty penny on the right fish. When you are spending so much money on fish their health is paramount. Keeping the area in which the fish live as clean as possible is seen as the optimal way to keep them safe from parasites and diseases. These kinds of ponds are often designed with bottom drains and large external mechanical and biological filtration units. Even better the use of large bog or wetland filters.
The bottom drains allow for any solids like fish waste, uneaten food and sunken plant materials to be easily drained from the pond. These organic materials will affect the water quality if allowed to build up. These are keeping the nitrogen cycle running smooth and water quality pristine. If your unsure about what the nitrogen cycle is you should read our article a quick guide to the nitrogen cycle. Certainly pros and cons on both sides but it's nice to see there's a bit of a "whatever works for you and your fish" approach and not necessarily a hard right vs wrong here.
Troutredds You can call me Red. Ours has a shelf with rocks boulders, river cobble, gravel and a bare shotcrete bottom. The rocky areas do collect more sediment but they also provide more surface area for fish grazing, beneficial bacteria production and aquatic insect habitat.
Whatever works for you, as you say Wammy. Yes - I agree with all -- it's a personal preference. My pond will be going into its third year. I have some small rounded egg rock on the bottom of mine - specifically because I can still see the liner. It hasn't been covered with algae just yet. Most of the rest of the pond is very natural looking - then here is this black plastic liner. I only put a few rocks on it as an experiment, so I didn't fully commit.
I like the look of the rock, so will probably add more. But I only do just enough to camouflage the bottom. In my pond, anyway, I don't think it makes any difference in how the pond operates. I have a skimmer, so there is very little debris that gets down there to require cleaning.
Mine is bare sort of, has some pea gravel, some kitty litter, some rocks that have fallen in here and there. Jack B. Mine is a shallow pond and I like a rocked bottom. If it were 4 feet deep I would not rock the bottom only one or two shelves as I dont believe you would notice it. Nimble said:. Remember, when you're talking about "rocking" the bottom of the pond you don't want large rocks. Large rocks would trap debris and could cause issues.
A rocked pond should have a shallow layer of gravel - just enough to cover the liner. It's both aesthetic as well as providing additional surface area for bacteria to colonize. I've also noticed that my fish spend lots of time picking up and spitting out gravel, so it's entertainment as well! That's a good point Jack Avoid tight curves or intricate shapes. These waste lining material, reduce water capacity and create stagnant areas where solid wastes can accumulate.
How deep should I make my pond? Only after the pond is completely filled and the rock edging is in place should you trim any excess liner. In most parts of the country, a pond for goldfish and plants of 18 inches - 24 inches is generally deep enough for fish to survive in the winter. For areas with very cold temperatures, such as upper New England or the upper Midwest, you should make your pond 30 inches or deeper so that it does not freeze completely to the bottom. Also, ponds intended specifically for Koi should be closer to three feet deep to allow room for these larger fish to swim freely.
What type of liner should I use? There are three basic methods to install a garden pond: concrete, pre-formed ponds and flexible liners.
Liners come in weights ranging from tear-resistant, lightweight liners to heavy-duty EPDM liners. Concrete Ponds: This option is not used often for residential ponds due to the cost in materials and labor and the eventual issue of cracking. Pre-formed ponds: These are generally for smaller ponds ranging from 50 gallons up to gallons. For in-ground applications, you simply excavate the shape of the pre-form and drop it in. An above ground installation takes a little more time and care when installing to ensure the pond form is stable and balanced.
These are well-suited for both applications, although you cannot alter the shape. Check with the dealer to ensure the material is safe for fish. These materials are very popular for the following reasons: Less expensive per square foot Offers the most options in terms of creating the shape and size of your pond, stream or waterfall Easy to install.
Unlike pre-formed ponds, flexible liners conform to any shape hole, and most come with a year warranty. What size flexible liner do I need? It is very difficult to pack ground back into the pond to make the pond smaller. So dig the hole first, then measure for the liner. Always buy a liner that is slightly bigger than you think you will need. Note: The pond should be at least 30 square feet with a minimum depth of 18 inches. How do I protect my flexible liner from tears and punctures?
After the rough excavation phase, carefully remove all sharp objects from the surface, such as nails, twigs, rocks and protruding roots that could puncture the layer. Use a broom and dustpan to remove stones and debris. Line the entire pond with one to three inches of sand and then properly position the underlying material to protect the main liner from root and rock punctures. The underliner is crucial — even if the soil appears free of sharp objects, they can work their way to the surface as the soil settles.
How do I install a liner? Unfold the liner on the lawn or another flat surface nearby. With at least one person on each side of the liner more for a larger liner , pick it up and walk to slide it over the hole that has been dug for your pond. Let the liner drop into the pond, making sure it extends evenly, well beyond the perimeter.
Minimize the number of small folds by pulling or tucking them into the large folds. How to I hide the liner around the borders? For a natural water garden pond, build a rock border around the edges, allowing rocks to overhang the water by one or two inches. To prevent the liner from showing, make sure the water meets the rock edging. During the excavation phase, a shallow shelf should be carved around the periphery of the pond as an area for placing your rock edging.
On one side you will find the group who argue that having rocks and gravel on the bottom of a pond will harm the fish and cause poor water quality. The other side says that rocks and gravel are fine and in fact will help house good bacteria as well as creates a more natural Aquascape.
Both can be very firm in what they believe. There are also benefits to keeping the liner rock free in your pond.
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